sculpture by the sea 2017

EdNa travelled to Sculpture by the Sea recently and here are my impressions.

EdNa delivers the Cargo

A holiday on the Aranui 5 is a different type of cruise.

We bought our holiday as a package (from Ultimate Travel, Ultimo, NSW) which included a pickup from home to the airport, flight to Papeete via Auckland, 3 nights accommodation in the Manava Resort, Papeete, then transfer to the ship. A thirteen night cruise, in a Superior Deluxe stateroom, transfer from the ship back to the Manava Resort, transfer to the airport, flight home and pickup from Sydney airport to home again. Buying a complete package took all the work, stress and worry out of the  planning process and we were very happy with the service we received from Beverley at Ultimate Travel.

The flight from Sydney (via Air New Zealand) was slightly delayed departing and when we arrived at Auckland and looked at the Flight Information board we saw we had vey little time to spare before our connection to Papeete. As it turned out, we sat in the departure lounge for a long time before boarding.

Service on Air New Zealand was fine but a very short distance between the seats so not enough leg room.

We flew Air Tahiti Nui from Auckland to Papeete and again the service was fine but not enough leg room. Also, the entertainment system was very old and only a small number of movies - so take a good book or your own movies on your tablet. Also no footrest on either plane so if you have short legs, take your own blow up foot cushion!

The Manava Resort is very nice, we had a Garden View room which was quite large, included a kitchenette and plenty of space. An Ocean View room would be nice, depending on the extra cost. The resort has an infinity pool where the water temperature was just right to cool off in. The only problem here is that construction work is being carried out near the pool, so if you want to relax there you have to put up with the noise and also the large crane spoiling the view.

Also there are roosters around that start crowing about 4 in the morning. It turned out that there are lots of roosters in the islands. Apparently they provide the colourful feathers for the traditional costumes.

A cold buffet breakfast was included but the price of meals for lunch and dinner was expensive by our standards (about $A40 - $A50 for a main course).

100 French Pacific Francs (XPF) ~ $A1.42 (at Sep 2017)

Around Papeete there are sites where "food trucks" can be found. There is a site a few minutes walk from the Resort. One night we ordered a steak with green beans and fish with chips. The amount of beans and the chips would have been enough to feed  about six people! Not exactly a cheap meal but a lot less than at the Resort. The next night we ordered pizza but it wasn't exactly wonderful.

The Resort runs a shuttle bus into the town and back a couple of times a day (700XPF per person each way). I would have to say there is not a lot to see in downtown Papeete. it gives the impression of "faded glory". What we saw in the shops was what we would consider as expensive by Australian standards. There was a gun shop in town selling the sort of guns we would normally only see in action movies. Goodness knows what anyone would do with them in Tahiti. 

Papeete also suffers from traffic congestion, especially at peak hours. Our return trip from the resort to the airport was along a slow moving car park. 

We took an afternoon tour around the island (5500XPF each) but again there wasn't that much to see other than the coastal scenery. There is a nice botanic garden but at least having done the tour we don't feel that we missed something.

The French government pours €1.7 billion into French Polynesia each year with most of it going to Tahiti but it still looks like it needs more.  A lot of it apparently goes into social services such as providing housing for low income people, and paying families to send their children to school. Unemployment is very high and the tourist industry is not what it was a few years ago. Many resorts have closed.

The daytime air temperature was in the mid to high twenties with a bit of cloud around.

The original Aranui (built 1984) was a cargo ship designed to carry cargo between Papeete and villages in the Marquesas Islands while carrying just a few passengers. Subsequent Aranuis were slightly larger each build and the Aranui 5 was designed to carry 295 passengers plus cargo and her maiden voyage was in December 2015.

The fact that the ship is still very much a cargo ship servicing the islands is what makes it different from other cruises. Watching the cargo going onto and off the ship is part of the experience for passengers. The main cargo being exported from the islands is copra.

Bags of copra waiting to be loaded onto the ship.

The itinerary for each cruise can vary subject to cargo requirements and then even when the cruise is underway, the schedule is subject to the weather and sea conditions.

We sailed from Papeete on Tue 12 Sep 2017 and the journey was Papeete - Rotoava on Fakarava island, Taiohae on Nuku Hiva (with visits to Haiheu and Taipival villages), Hakahau on Ua Pou, Puamau on Hiva Oa, Vaitahu on Tahuata, Atuona on Hiva Oa, Omoa then Hanavave on Fatu Iva, Vaipaee on Ua Huka (with visits to Hokatu and Hane villages), then back to Taiohae on Nuku Hiva and Hakahau on Ua Pou, Tiputa on Rangiroa, Motu Tapu on Bora Bora and then back to Papeete.

We had a Deluxe Superior Stateroom (on deck 9) which had a balcony. It was a little "cosy" but comfortable and well equiped.

There were 204 passengers on board,  94 French,  67 English speaking ( a mix of Australians, New Zealanders, Americans, Canadians, British and various other countries who didn't necessarily speak French and included a couple from Iceland, and a Chilean), plus 43 Germans. The numbers varied slightly between ports with passengers disembarking and others embarking. Announcements on board were in French and English, so I don't know how the Germans got on, maybe they have enough French or English. The vast majority of the passengers were middle aged and older. I think the oldest was 87 years.

Breakfast was a buffet, hot and cold with fruit in season. From the look of the mangoes on the trees we saw on the islands, October would be the time to come if you are partial to mangoes.

Lunch and dinner were usually three courses but no choice of dishes, although if you didn’t want a dish an alternative would be offered. The serves were a modest size but with three courses certainly enough to eat (I don’t think anyone went hungry). Lots of fish, including raw fish, on the menu so if one doesn’t eat/like fish it could be a problem. I don’t know how a vegetarian or vegan would cope but I think that those with special dietary needs were catered for.

Wine was served at lunch and dinner, rationed at one (free) bottle per four persons but more could be purchased.

Some lunches were had ashore in a village we were visiting, usually a buffet style with dishes of raw fish, roasted pork, a goat dish, chicken, breadfruit and taro plus fruit.

Dinner on board was sometimes a buffet served on the outdoor decks.

There was a “Happy Hour” most days when a limited range of Cocktails were available at half price (500 - 650 XPF).

Internet is available on the ship, 3500XPF for 150mb, or 5000XPF for 300mb. This service is much faster than that which is available on the islands, which are cheaper, but are v e r y   s l o w and liable to drop out. So if you want internet access - pay for it.

Our first port of call was Rotoava, on Fakarava. This is a long, narrow, flat atoll with lots of coconut trees, surrounding a very wide lagoon. Going ashore involves getting off the ship onto a barge which takes passengers to a pier onshore.

We went snorkelling there but the coral was dead and the fish were not all that spectacular. There is no snorkelling in the Marquesas and only one place, Hakahau on Ua Pau where one can swim.

We docked at a wharf at Taiohae on the southern side of Nuku Hiva island and were taken by vehicle to the village for a look around before rejoining the vehicle for a journey over the hills to Haitheu on the northern side of the island. There was a stop at an archaeological site for an explanation of the remains there and a dance performance under a huge banyan tree - a very spectacular show.

Lunch was at a local restaurant and included pig baked in a pit (Umu). Then back over the hills for a guided tour of the Cathedral at Taiohae. Quite a spectacular journey over the hills but someone needs to teach these drivers what a gear box is for - I kept sitting there wanting to say “try second gear!”

Day 5 was Hakahau on Ua Pou, another dock landing. We went for a hike up a rather steep and at times rocky path up a hill for a view over the bay - not far but under the conditions quite tiring and sweaty. 

We then had a dance performance which was the best we saw on the cruise. Lunch ashore again.

BBQ on deck for dinner.

Puamau on Hiva Oa was another barge landing with the option of attending Mass at the local church. We visited an archaeological site at Te I’Ipona for a talk on the ancient culture. 

After lunch it was off to Vaitahu on Tahuata - a barge from the ship to the pier for a guided tour of the catholic church.

Atuona on Hiva Oa is where both Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are both buried in the local cemetery. There is a museum dedicated to Gauguin which houses copies of his paintings and information on his life. One of the ship’s guides, who lives on Ua Pau, gave a very informative talk on Gauguin. Another museum houses a restored Beechcraft plane which belonged to Jaques Brel (no CD’s of his music on sale though!).

Day 8 provided an opportunity for the more physically inclined (capable) passengers (not us!) at Omoa on Fatu Hiva. A barge landing and the hikers set off on a 10 mile hike to the ship’s next port of call, around the coast at Hanavave. The hike started with a 5 mile climb up at about 20 degrees and then a 5 mile descent at even steeper grades at the end. Those who managed it reported it as quite a challenge. The rest of us just wandered around the village till it was time to sail. 

The consensus amongst the passengers we spoke to was that Omoa was the “nicest” place we visited. Very small population. It just had a good look and feel to it.

A barge landing at Hanavave for a quick look around the village.

Day 9 we were up early to watch the ship’s entry and manoeuver in Vaipaee bay on Ua Huka. The bay is short and very narrow so the ship enters bow first, drops the anchor and swings, with only just enough room, 180 degrees and ties up from the stern to both sides of the bay. Because of its exposure, a barge landing here in rough weather would be a challenge - fortunately we had relatively smooth seas. 

From the pier we were taken by 4WD vehicles (see my previous comments about gears) to the Botanical Garden, trees, not flowers, where our guides gave an informative talk on the garden’s history and the various trees and fruits. The only ripe ones at this time were star fruit and a type of mandarin. We did see a Soursop growing though, a fruit we had heard about but never seen.

Then we drove on to a museum which had been created by reproducing, from photographs, items which are held in the British Museum, about the local culture. There was a slight rain shower just as we were leaving for Hokatu village where there is a handicraft centre and a Petroglyph museum. Then we were driven to Hane village, another handicraft centre and a small Sea Museum. Lunch was at the Celine Fournier restaurant in Hane, then driven back to the ship. 

Ua Huka is different from the other islands in the Marquesa group. It is the most northern and drier that the others. It presents a very different aspect, less trees and more open areas but still very hilly with a spectacular coastline.

The next day we were back in Taiohae for a short time before sailing back to Hakahau. Then a Polynesian buffet on the pool deck for dinner when unfortunately we had a couple of heavy rain showers toward the end of the meal. Not enough to dampen (if you’ll pardon the pun) anyone’s spirit. Fortunately we were sitting under cover. The crew just carried on presenting the food and the show.

The Marqueasas Islands, part of French Polynesia, lie about 1370km NE of Tahiti. They are of volcanic origin and rise sharply and spectacularly from the sea. The little bit of beach they have is black sand. They are quite different from the low lying coral atolls, covered by coconut palms and surrounded by turquoise seas. 

There was usually quite a bit of cloud around the peaks of the islands in the morning which tended to clear as the day went on.

The Islanders still keep horses as a form of transport and there are wild pigs and goats in the interior of the islands which are sought by game hunters.

Hiva Oa

Fatu Hiva

Day 11 was our second “sea day” (day 3 was our first). Enough going on on board to stop anyone getting bored and also a nice chance to have a rest from our busy schedule so far.

Rangiroa is a chain of atolls surrounding the second largest lagoon in the world. The ship enters the lagoon through a very narrow channel.

The landing at Rangiroa is directly from the barge onto the beach, the only landing of this type on the cruise. There is no pier. There were no waves to speak of so we able go ashore without getting our feet wet.

Rangiroa is home to a black pearl farm and we went on a short bus ride from where we landed to the pearl farm for a very interesting and informative talk on how pearls are cultured and grown. The ride also gave us an opportunity to see a bit more of the island.

We had time for a refreshing swim but didn’t bother snorkelling as we expected to get better conditions on Bora Bora.

All the places we have visited on this cruise have been very clean, tidy and well kept. We have often seen people (the equivalent of council workers?) picking up leaves (there doesn’t seem to be any rubbish lying around), cutting grass and keeping the place tidy. The people are wearing clean clothes and seem happy. Much nicer than Papeete which has a dilapidated look and feel to it. There are stalls selling handicrafts and fruit at all the places but no one is trying to attract attention, they just sit there and wait for you to come to them and there is no selling pressure - you either want to buy or you don’t. We haven’t seen anyone begging, which is more than be said for continental places. 

We have heard quite a bit of talk about how island people are now trying to rediscover and revive their ancient culture which had been virtually wiped out by western missionaries in the late 19th century. The ship’s crew provide entertainment in the form of traditional song and dance and appear very proud of their culture and history.

We sailed into the lagoon at Bora Bora and anchored offshore for a barge transfer to the pier at Vaitape. Bora Bora is an island in a lagoon surrounded by a chain of atolls. 

Sunday morning so the only things open were one supermarket, a pharmacy, one gift shop and the churches. Lots of people in their Sunday best, also a lot of traffic with people coming to church. It didn’t look like there was much to see anyway unless you were interested in buying pearls.

We transferred to a small island for a buffet bbq provided by the ship’s kitchen. 

After lunch we went on a motorized canoe cruise around the island. We only booked this tour (the only optional tour we took - all the other tour mentioned are included in the cruise fare) at the last minute because we were told it was our best opportunity to go snorkelling, having been disappointed at Fakarava and Rangirora. And having carted our goggles and snorkels all this way we wanted to get some use out of them.

The first stop was an opportunity (not taken by us) to swim with sting rays (remember Steve Irwin) and black tip sharks (about 1 - 1.2m long). It was interesting watching the guide in the water handling and feeding the rays.

Our next stop was over some coral outcrops, where we did go into the water. Not  a lot of colour in the coral but there was an abundance of small to medium sized, colourful fish. It was absolutely amazing swimming among them, so close we could have touched them if we were quick enough. At times we were right in the middle of a school. Even better than swimming in Fiji.

The third stop was over a sandy sea bottom that was a very fine sand, almost like mud and reminded us of the sediment in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland.

The tour enabled us to see the resorts that have accommodation out over the lagoon, all looking similar but apparently range greatly in price. The guide said that one of them costs $US10,500 per night.

It was then back to Papeete to disembark.

All in all the cruise was wonderful. The whole ship's crew were fantastic - friendly, helpful and good company. They are very practiced at getting passengers from the ship into the barges and we always felt we were in safe hands. Passengers need to have both hands free for the transfers so you need to carry what you want for the time ashore in a back pack. The food was excellent. The only minor complaint I have is that the bar staff were slow, especially when there was only one person behind the bar during Cocktail Hour.

There was a guest lecturer on board giving talks on various matters about Polynesia and there was a daily briefing about the next day's activities. The ship's band performed on a few of the nights. 

We were very fortunate with the weather and seas during our cruise. In theory, September, October should be the best time of the year to visit. We were told that the previous two cruises struck rough seas and a lot of passengers were seasick. 

We had smooth to slight seas, little wind and maximum day temperatures around 28 deg C. Night time temps were a little cooler, especially at sea, but not cold. The temperature in the interior of the ship was around 22 deg C. We went through a couple of light rain showers but generally there was little cloud other than that around the higher peaks on the islands.

Mosquitoes and Nonos (a type of biting sand fly) were not a problem (despite us having bought very powerful repellant in Papeete) but would be in the warmer, wetter months.

We had two nights back at the Manava Resort and just spent the time relaxing and recovering from the cruise. It had been a busy schedule with early starts nearly every morning (breakfast commenced at 6.30am most days).

We ate at the food trucks again and discovered a different pizza truck from our previous visit which served very good pizzas. And another food truck where we shared one huge plate of food, which made it much cheaper than our first time in Papeete.

The resort opened the breakfast bar at 5.30am to enable the guests departing on the flight to Auckland to have breakfast before leaving. 

The Air Tahiti Nui aircraft for our return flight to Auckland was much newer than our incoming flight with a bit more leg room, a newer entertainment system but still only a small number of movies from which to choose. Brunch was served shortly after take off. We had about two hours between flights at Auckland for our final leg home.

As the sun sings slowly in the west  . . . . . . .