Salzburg

Salzburg

Wed 7 Sep 16

The main train line from Vienna to Salzburg goes via St Polten but my rail map of Europe shows the line south from Vienna to Leoben then to Salzburg as being longer and slower but more scenic. The route goes over the Semmering Pass (we visited Semmering four years ago) and this section of the track is World Heritage listed. We weren't disappointed by the scenery. It is postcard Austria, minus the snow. Especially the section from Leoben to Salzburg. The line goes along mountain valleys with the mountains often rising up beside the train line. The most spectacular scenery we have seen in Europe this visit. The skies had turned hazy again but not enough to detract from the views.

We had been told by various people that we would love Salzburg but we arrived here without any idea of what to expect. Our train arrived in the late afternoon so we had time to wander around both before and after dinner. We are both quite taken by the city, especially the old town. Lots of narrow streets and laneways which have a rather different aspect to them that I can't quite put my finger on that makes them different from say Koblenz or Regensburg.  Perhaps it's something to do with the setting being at the base of the cliffs or the signs hanging in front of every shop. 

Thu 8 Sep 16

Up early this morning to wander around before too many people were about. We went into the Dom, a rather spectacular Baroque church and while we were inside a tour group of Chinese came in. They wouldn't have been in there for two minutes - they had a quick look, lots of selfies then out again. 

We went into a small graveyard behind the Dom and saw something we have never seen before - wrought iron grave markers instead of headstones.

An Australian in Austria.

We then took the funicular up to the old fort to have a view over the city. The carriage was crowded and an American women standing next to me said to her husband that there was room in the next section. I said, no, there wasn't, there was a pram in there (taking up the space). She looked at me as if she didn't understand me so I said " a stroller". She then made a "pushing" motion to indicate that she knew what I was saying. I said "my English is not very good, I am Australian" (as a joke). She said "and my German is zilch".

Hazy again especially when looking toward the sun but bright light with the sun behind.

Lots of people around by late morning, many tour groups and quite a few groups of young people on tours also.

Weather station in Salzburg

Fri 9 Sep 16

Caught a suburban bus out to visit Hellbrunn Palace with its trick fountains. Built for an Archbishop's pleasure, who used to get his guests drunk and play tricks on them with hidden water sprays. You can only see the fountains on a guided tour and unfortunately, the one we were put on was conducted in Spanish and English. The problem was, there was a large group of Spaniards on the tour so about ninety percent of the commentary was in Spanish and the little bit of English was spoken with a heavy Spanish accent. Not sure that we missed much anyway and besides, we lucky that we visited on a reduced price day, €4 instead of €12 each. 

It's interesting how inconsiderate people can be. They want to take a photo so they stand in front of everyone and don't think that anyone else might also want a photo.   Or the tall ones stand in front of short people.

The bus ride gave us a chance to see a bit of the suburbs.

Visited a very old wine bar and had in interesting conversation with the owner. She said that Salzburg was now dependant on tourism and that half the apartments in the city are actually empty. She also said that the vines in Austria were diseased years ago (she wasn't sure about when) and had been replaced with roots from America.

It has been hot in Salzburg and we were told we were lucky with the weather as it usually rains here.

We must have walked along nearly every street and passage way in the old town and most of those in the old part of the new town. Even walked past the "Maison d'Plaisir" (with its red light) on what was originally the main street in town centuries ago.

A view overlooking the city.