The Journey Continues

Danube Part 2

Wed 31 Aug 16

We were in luck with the weather again for our cruise from Passau to Linz. A beautiful fine day with mild temperatures. 

The river valley down river from Passau is very different from that between Regensburg and Passau . Up river, the valley is wide with agricultural land on the banks whereas downriver the valley is very narrow with hills rising up from the river banks most of the way. There are some small towns by the riverside, where the boat stops, and also a few houses which seem to quite isolated.

The river downstream from Passau is even more green as a result of it mixing with the waters of the Inn River which originates in the mountains of Switzerland.

There are fewer people on this ship than on the one from Regensburg, probably because it is a week day.

Most of the people we have taken for tourists are "not young", I guess because the main holiday season is over and people have gone back to school or work. Also, we have seen hardly any Asians on our way across Germany. Possibly because we are slightly off the main tourist track and they stick to the major centres. And we have seen only one or two selfie sticks! (Which are mainly used by younger people and Chinese anyway.)

I think that babies' prams must have very good tyres and/or suspension in these towns paved with cobblestones, otherwise there would be the possibility of "shaken baby syndrome". Pity people in wheelchairs.

European doonas are a problem. They are not designed for hot nights - they are far too warm, and try explaining to the housemaid that you want a light blanket instead - good luck. Besides, they are rather short, how do tall people like the Dutch cope?

I am amazed, if you will pardon the pun, at the amount of maize, or is it corn, that is growing along the fields by the river. What happens to it all? 

It is a bit too far to drag suitcases over cobblestones from the boat wharf at Linz to the train station so we caught a taxi. Train to Melk with one change. Perhaps we are making it harder for ourselves with all these changes of transport but it means we get to see different aspects of the countryside.

I visited Melk in 2012 but Susan hasn't been here before. Melk Abbey is part of UNESCO's World Cultural Heritage. It is built on a cliff overlooking the town.

Thu 1 Sep 16

Melk

Didn't Quasimodo, in the Hunchback of Notre Dame, say "the bells, Master! The bells!"?

Well we had bells on and off all night! They rang at all sort of intervals for various periods with a long period at 6am. Unfortunately one of the churches was very close to where we were staying. The hotel was not air conditioned so it was necessary to have the windows open to let fresh air (and noise) in. Also, what appears to be the only pub in the old town is just below the hotel so noise from that didn't help. Besides all that, the bed was very soft and squeaky.

Melk Abbey is worth a visit. We took a guided tour through the museum which was very  informative. The tour ends with an entrance into the church. When I was here last it was possible to take photos in the church, which is claimed to be one of the most beautiful Baroque churches in the world. The tour guide said that about four kilograms of gold was used in decorating the church. Now, there are signs everywhere saying "NO PHOTOS". Why? Yes, I know it's a church all that that implies, but I can't think of any other major church I have been in where one couldn't take photos, except The Sistine Chapel. The Abbey is dependant on tourists but if the selfie generation (and the Chinese) can't photograph themselves there, will they come?

Spent the rest of the day looking around the old town - very pleasant.

Fri 2 Sep 16

The Danube Part 3

Enough is enough! After two nights of hardly any sleep due to the bells, the noise from the pub and a very soft, squeaky bed, we are out of here to whereever! It meant we had to pay for the three nights we had booked for but it is worth it in the hope of getting a good night's sleep.

So we are changing our travel plans .

We sent an email off very early in the morning to the owner of the flat we have booked for our stay in Vienna to see if we could come in a day earlier. In the meantime we looked at the possibility of staying a night at Krems but that didn't look promising and the thought of finding somewhere suitable (price and location) in Vienna was daunting.

Luckily, the flat in Vienna was available, so we took the river cruise that we had booked for the next day, today, to Krems and then a train to Vienna.

This means we will have one extra day in Vienna and won't have to rush to see everything.

My suggestion for visiting Melk would be to make it a day trip from Vienna, which is what I did last time. Catch an early train, tour the Abbey and spend the afternoon looking around the old town. Maybe even have dinner there. We had two very good evening meals there. In fact, we have been very happy with the food at all the places we have eaten across Germany. The servings are very big though, so unless you are hungry, for two people, order one main and a salad and share - it will be sufficient. 

The river cruise is only about two hours but it passes through the Wachau Valley, one of the major wine producing areas in Austria. 

How is it that European wine makers are able to produce good tasting red wine with an alcohol content of 12% whereas in Australia you are lucky to get one at 13.5% and most of them are above 14% and even 15% or more? 

Another very pleasant river cruise. We might have to consider doing a long one one day. A bit cloudy and rather hazy with signs of the possibility of storms later.

It was about a 30 min slow (dragging suitcases) walk from the wharf to the station. Time for a quick look at some of Krems before taking the train to Vienna.

Some rain along the way with signs of there having been heavy rain earlier. Fortunately, it stopped before we reached Vienna.

Some confusion about the exact location of the entrance to the flat and we were told off in no uncertain terms by the owner about not following her instructions properly. We just didn't understand the European way of writing an address. Anyway, no real problem and we are now looking forward to having an extra day in Vienna, staying in a very lovely and modern apartment (with a washing machine!). 

We were in Vienna four years ago and both really enjoyed the place and wanted to come back, so here we are.